Romania, which is centrally located in Europe, has a rich cultural history that is deeply ingrained in its fabrics. Romanian textiles are a reflection of the varied landscapes and ancient customs of this captivating country, ranging from the rough peaks of the Carpathian Mountains to the tranquil plains of Transylvania.
Romanian textile craftsmanship traces its roots back to ancient times, influenced by a multitude of civilizations that settled and thrived in the region. From the Dacians and Romans to the Byzantines and Ottomans, each left an indelible mark on the textile traditions of Romania. According to history, the Dacians wore clothing similar to that of our mountain peasants: “They wore a broad, sleeveless cloak sewn on the shoulder above a kind of tunic up to the knees, tight like a girdle across the middle, wide threads tied to the ankle with a string or stuck in the shoulder.”
The traditional blouse worn by Romanian ladies, known as “ia,” is one of the most renowned examples of textile creativity in Romania. The “ia” is a richly symbolic and intricately embroidered sign of social position and regional characteristics. Every region has its own unique patterns and themes, like Oltenia’s floral motifs and Maramureş’s geometric designs.
Romanian textiles are made using a wide range of techniques, such as knitting, crocheting, and weaving, in addition to embroidery. Often employed in ceremonies, the “ștergar,” or decorative towel, is a notable example of Romanian weaving, embellished with vibrant patterns. The traditional textiles are made from natural materials that are obtained from the surrounding area. Commonly used fibers include silk, wool, hemp, and linen, each of which gives the fabrics a distinct texture and personality. Natural plant dyes, such as indigo, madder root, and walnut husks provide the textiles with vivid colors that guarantee their eco-friendliness and authenticity.
Another traditional Romanian textile is the “rug,” a handwoven rug that is typically made using wool. Romanian rugs are known for their bold colors and intricate designs, with patterns ranging from geometric shapes to floral motifs. These rugs are not only beautiful to look at, but also serve a practical purpose in traditional Romanian homes, providing warmth and comfort during the cold winter months.
To understand better the value of traditional Romanian textiles I interviewed one specialist in the domain of researching traditional textiles and their stories. Larisa Petcuț has a Master’s Degree in Textile Design and currently is studying for a PhD in researching traditional textiles and their stories at UAD.
Sam: Can you tell us what you do?
Larisa: I am currently a doctoral student at the Doctoral School of the University of Arts and Design in Cluj-Napoca. My research aims to create new paradigms in contemporary textile art through the use of traditional Eastern European techniques, resources, and references, viewed from the perspective of female contribution. On a practical level, I carry out various ethnographic visits to areas that keep textile traditions alive, and then I apply this knowledge in the creation of new works, from textile sculptures to installations and performances. I try to approach these resources in a non-traditional way, translating them into a language that is understandable and relevant to the viewer, trying to introduce them to the contemporary art scene.
Sam: Do you think that the material in traditional Romanian textiles is important?
Larisa: Definitely, yes. The entire process of making traditional Romanian clothes and textiles revolved around materials and their processing. The materials used were the result of an annual domestic production cycle. This clothing was made in rural households by women weavers, and the production process was directly correlated with agriculture and the seasons. Hemp, linen, and wool predominated among the materials used. Hemp and flax were sown in the spring, and after plucking, drying, and combing, the spinning process began at the end of autumn. Wool was also collected from the sheep in the spring and spun in the winter in the sheds. Being a cold season, which did not allow work in agriculture, the making of clothes and other necessary textiles was done exclusively in winter. Returning to the question, the processing procedures of the raw materials were a laborious one, requiring a lot of attention and time on the part of the weavers precisely because they wanted the final result (respectively the clothing) to be the desired one.
Sam: Do you think that the materials from traditional Romanian clothing will be worn by Romanians as much as in the past?
Larisa: Unfortunately, this scenario does not seem very likely. As it follows from above, these materials require a lot of time and resources to be made, and nowadays people tend to opt for “fast” solutions. The good news is that while our predecessors opted for these materials for lack of other alternatives, today we have a very diverse selection to choose from, and fortunately, this selection also includes environmentally friendly materials. In recent years consumers seem to be more conscious when it comes to their textile choices and are trying to cut down on fast-fashion consumption. Although at the moment it would be a financial effort for buyers to completely give up plastic materials (polyester, acrylic, nylon), classic materials such as wool, linen, or cotton are still very good alternatives. There are also more and more technologies that develop new cruelty-free and sustainable materials, such as materials from plant residues (Desserto, Piñatex, Mylo). So while I don’t think these materials will be used as much as in the past, the future looks promising.
Sam: In your opinion, what is the most important piece of traditional Romanian clothing?
Larisa: I couldn’t select just one piece. On the other hand, a fact that I noticed in a case study carried out in Viișoara, Mureș county, is that some categories of clothing were more important than others. While the popular attire differs from one region to another we can see that everywhere in the country clothes were mainly divided into work clothes and “Sunday” clothes. Clothing intended for everyday living was of coarser linen or hemp, in simple shades of beige and without ornamentation. In contrast, the clothing kept especially for church and feast days had more complicated cuts and was colorful and detailed. This second category seemed to be more “important” in the eyes of the weavers, here they could demonstrate their skill, and the results were a source of pride for them. Also, these were the clothes made by mothers for dowries for girls.
Sam: Why should today’s young people be interested in Romanian costumes or materials?
Larisa: The story of traditional Romanian costumes and textiles is part of a national history that unfortunately has often been omitted from recent times. Made by creators who have remained anonymous and also have a utilitarian purpose, this textile heritage seems to be often undervalued in the artistic hierarchy. I think it’s a history that deserves to be revisited and reclaimed for the simple importance it played in the lives of Romanian women throughout time, but also because of its far too little explored artistic value. Introduced as a basis for artwork these traditional resources can compose an authentic and relevant discourse. I believe there is no better time than the present to start caring about these traditional resources. We are at a critical moment in their history, witnessing a gradual breakdown of these techniques and customs within the social and generational changes we are experiencing. The good thing is that today we still have the chance to learn about this history itself from the women whose hands created it. Thus, I warmly encourage that when we have another opportunity to see our grandmothers, we ask them to tell us stories about their lives.
To sum up, traditional Romanian textiles are a priceless asset that perfectly captures the spirit of the nation’s rich cultural legacy and expert craftsmanship. These textiles, which range from extravagant costumes and handmade rugs with brilliant colors to delicately embroidered ie shirts, are a monument to the Romanian people’s inventiveness and artistic talent. We can guarantee that these exquisite fabrics will be valued and honored for many centuries to come by maintaining and advancing these traditional methods. Romanian traditional textiles represent a distinct and precious aspect of the nation’s cultural heritage, whether they are worn as a badge of honor, showcased as artwork in the house, or just appreciated for their exquisite beauty.
Leave a Reply